Long Term Storage


UNLESS you live in a warm climate with very, very high humidity all you should need to do is:

(these are not is order of proceedure)

Change oil and filter
Replace antifreeze with a new 50/50 mix (DO NOT drain cooling system and leave dry for winter)
Add a storage stabilizer to the gasoline, run engine, pull fuel pump fuse and let engine purge gas from fuel rail.
Disconnect and remove battery to a warmer environment, hook to a 1 amp or less trickle charger.
Do NOT set emergency brake
lower air pressure in tires to 20 PSI
Stuff rags in exhaust tips, seal outside with aluminum foil.
Remove air filter tube from TB, Cover opening with aluminum foil and tape tightly.
If stored inside - crack windows 1/2"
Place two large boxes of Baking Soda, with the top open, in the floorboards of the car, another in the rear trunk (like you do in the refrigerator). You may want to place a couple of frabic softener sheets like you use in the dryer under the seats to keep the inside smelling fresh (this works great anytime).
Some like to remove spark plugs and squirt oil into each plug hole then replace plugs. Only problem is this can damage the catalytic converter when you start up in the spring.
Fogging the outside of the engine, especially any exposed steel or aluminum parts, with WD-40, Armor All or one of the silicone based tire shine products like "No Touch" may prevent rusting or oxidation.
Wash the car, dry and give it a good coat of wax.
Rub Armor All or pure silicone on all the gaskets and exposed rubber parts, including the outside and INSIDE of the tires.
Say good night and prepare for a long winter's sleep.

I have been using the above methods for many years on a multitude of cars I store, including my RV. They always work, the vehicles suffer no storage damage. Watch for mice, though - they can present a whole different problem. Some of my friends swear a rubber snake will keep mice out of cars and RVs. You may want to give it a try.

From: Randy Agee

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