My first major Fiero repair consisted of a clutch replacement on my Formula. At that time, I had no way of removing the engine and had to develop a cheap way to hang the engine. This was on a V6; L4 may be similar.
This basic concept replaces the GM tool seen demonstated in the Helms (maybe others) for hanging the engine. I am writting this from memory so don't make your parts list from this letter then strike out on that 2 hour drive to the closest hardware store.
This will create a three point support system for the engine transmission from above. Once installed, the cradle/drive line can be removed, the engine/tranny tipped down on the tranny side and the tranny removed.
Cost: $30 maybe
Safety note: purchase hooks and eyebolts for the MAXIMUM rated load you can find for this job to improve the safety margin.
major parts:
one 2"x 2" x 3/16 or 1/4" wall square steel tube - approx 54" long
This will be placed rearward between the two strut towers. I placed mine on a couple of wood 2x4 scraps to provide friction. Drill two holes in the beam over the engine lift points. One is a lift ring near the transmission. The other is created be replacing a bolt in the forward dog bone mount bracket after removing the dog bone. In these two holes, place large eye bolts with long ( 12 " ??) threaded portions, nut and washer on top of the beam, loop down near the lift point. Couple these loops to the lift points with hooks. Place your dog bone hook near one of the two bracket sides to reduce the bending force on the bolt (ie, don't hook it in the middle).
I have heard that a wooden 4x4 will subsitute for the 2x2 square tube.
one 1" x 2" x 3/16 or 1/4" steel tube - approximately 36" long
This beam does the same job but forward of the engine. Remove the deck lid and place the tube between the deck lid brackets and the fire wall (right at the top). The third lift point will be found at the corner of the block near the battery. Similiarly to above, install a large eye bolt and hooks to make the connection.
In general, this three eye bolts can be tightened to lift and tilt the engine to a variety of postions.
Generously lube the threaded section of these. Eye bolts, etc are not intended to provide a jacking function as they are being used here. Their threads can gall (become damaged) easily, reducing their strength. Threads that come to a point (have a triangular cross section) are meant for bolting. Square cross section threads are for jacking. It would be better to have square cross section threads on the eye bolts - I couldn't find any. For comparison, if you have a strut spring compressor, it probably has square threads.
This worked for me but I would suggest changing the eye bolts after a few jobs just in case.
From: David C.