"Out of 5 Fieros I have owned all of them have had the scratches on the drivers side window. You know the lines all the way up and down the window. I was just wondering what causes this and is there a way to prevent this?"
The tracks the windows ride in and the felts that seal the outside of the window glass. It's a thing that is not unique to Fiero's... F-Body cars suffer the same. I think that because the window glass is curved and supported only from the bottom, instead of being supported from the edges like other cars.
Guess it just is.
From: Curt Martin
"Can I fix my window?"
Cerium Oxide that come in a powder will polish it out. You mix it with water into a slurry and polish with a very dense felt pad at a very slow speed (1500 rpm). I believe JCWhitney has it, or some hardware/auto stores.
"Can I prevent this from happening again?"
The problem is that inside the door are two felt pads that are rivited onto the their respective holders. Once the felt is gone the rivits will scratch. The only fix is to open the door, remove the glass for access and replace the pads...
"Is there anybody out there who have replaced a door window. Do I have >to drill out the large pop-rivets that hold the plastic stoppers?"
YES - and of course the plastic rollers too.
"does anyone know where I can get the big rivets that GM uses for the body panels? Can't get them here."
Those 1/4" rivets require a special tool to set. If you have the tool, most any auto body or auto glass supply place should have the rivets. I have never tried to buy them as I do not have the proper tool to set them.
I "fudged" when I replaced the window on my '87 GT. I put a 1/4 inch stove bolt and a nut in the rollers with the window out. I "then hot glued" the 1/4" nut to the back of the plastic rollers (the door skin side), removed the stove bolt, coated the threads with Loctite and inserted the bolt from the inside of the door to secure them. The plastic stops are in a position that you can just "nut 'n bolt" them on after the glass is inserted. Just be sure your bolts are not too long! All worked fine for me.
From: Randy T. Agee
|First get a copy of a Haynes or better yet the Helms manual. Either one tells you were the adjustment screws are for the door window. Chiltons does not have this information.|
|Next remove the inner door panel.|
|Remove the moisture barrier.|
|For reference, there are two adjusters on the top of the door frame (10 mm bolts). These control the tightness of the window and help keep the window from falling too fast. If you loosen these, the window will wobble and be loose. So make sure they are adjusted correctly and the window is not wobbling when rolled up and so the window does not rattle when in the up position. (note: don't make these adjustments too tight or the window will get scratches from the pads, tighten them enough to keep window from rattling.)|
|I recommend that you look at all the adjustments on the door and try to imagine what they do before starting. Use the Haynes and my note to help you discover the problem and how to adjust the window. If the window is not rolling up far enough then do procedure 2. If the window is rolling up fine but it sticks outward too much then do procedure 1. If the window just rattles when up, try the first suggestion of adjusting the two adjusters that are next to the dew wipe.|
From: Jason Wenglikowski
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